You can wait hours in line to slowly walk by the booths at night. There are thousands of people. I mean, let's face it: If you've got a yen to see carved radishes, you have no other choices! Ya gotta get yourself to Oaxaca on December 23rd!
We went in the late afternoon, so we could avoid the crowds AND see people creating their displays. We could actually even chat a bit with the artists, in our rudimentary Spanish.
The trade-off was that we didn't see all the finished work and I don't know who won the Grand Prize. But that's alright.
For me, the most exciting thing is to see the CREATION of the performance, not the performance itself.
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